Journeyman’s Food + Drink Chef Zach Geerson shapes the dining scene
“Believe in yourself and create something that in your heart, your gut, and your mind you can confidently say that, “This . . . this is who I am, and this is what I offer as a being, here with you now.””
The lifespan of a course at Journeyman’s Food + Drink varies from dish to dish. From inspiration to conceptualization to execution to departure, it can last days, weeks or perhaps months. Ultimately, it is rare to find a plate that is consistently on the menu from one visit to the next. This is a result of ingredients dictating the menu, and Chef Zach Geerson respects them enough to know when it’s time to move on to a different iteration.
Our introduction to Journeyman’s prix-fixe begins with an accommodation: one observation that guests commonly expressed dairy restrictions. In lieu of altering the flavor profile of a recipe, this kitchen takes on the challenge of crafting a satisfying alternative. Familiar caprese salad is reborn as Heirloom Tomato & Coconut. A savory pour over of tomato-coconut tea flavored with allspice saturates whole wheat croutons, herbs, mint oil and rose compressed heirlooms. The impressive mozzarella understudy is a silky, coconut-ginger panna cotta.
Continuing with an unintentional, yet refreshing theme, Chef Geerson sought to improve upon restaurant renditions of cucumber dishes. As a result, he not only served a deceptively simple plate, but presented the fruit a quartet of ways. Cucumber, Kinome, Finger Lime celebrates texture as much as color, with an emulsion of cucumber scraps anchoring cucumber marinated in lime leaf vinaigrette. Kinome leaves lend a touch of heat, originating from the prickly ash plant in Japan (where Szechwan peppercorn is harvested). Lime and tiny lemon cucumbers infuse nuances of tartness. To garnish, a fine powder comprised of repurposed cucumber skin.
Hints of molecular gastronomy continue to emerge as Journeyman’s reinterprets a familiar seafood specialty. Hamachi Crudo, English Pea, Basil dresses its fish with house made shichimi togarashi seasoning and Hawaiian salt. Marinated English peas rest on a matching puree. Accents of umami-rich dashi gelee also infused the vegetable. Slivers of preserved tangerine pop alongside Thai basil and pea sprouts, amusing our palate with the citrus complement while beautifully resembling modest works of art.
Navigating towards dessert, the intent to offer a sweet that could be described as “clean and bright” was the kitchen’s goal. Their Lemon & Green Tea course succeeded on both counts, as swirls of matcha whip cream with matching green tea cookie balance out a trio of marinated lemon, dehydrated lemon chip and tangy curd. Delicate jasmine flowers spark our senses as we leaned in for a taste.
Sensing our inclination to request a final dish, Chef Zach disappeared into the back. His Progressive American vision would manifest itself in the form of Strawberry & Black Sesame. A study in red fruit, we learned it contained seven different preparations. From pickled to macerated, our treat even featured aged green strawberries, prepared umeboshi-style with red shiso and aged for over a year. A finishing strawberry consommé would activate the dehydrated meringue version with black sesame. Dark sesame brittle gave a satisfying crunch, while rose petals that have been salt preserved waft their fragrance.
Understanding Journeyman’s nonconformist mindset is best described by Chef Geerson, “Our goal is not to be fine dining in the known context, but offer great food, beverages and service with a fine mind.” What makes Journeyman’s Food + Drink different makes them special, and we have the utmost respect for how they are shaping the dining scene in Orange County.
Journeyman’s Food + Drink is found at 1500 South Raymond Avenue in Fullerton. 714.635.9025; JourneymanFood.com